A Wine Writers View on the World of Wine. Formerly Magics Wine Guide and Reviews for Newbies
Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Awatere Valley Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand 2010 (£8.99, Sainsbury’s, sainsburys.co.uk) That most Germanic of grapes, riesling, is thriving Down Under. Already a classic in the dry styles of South Australia’s Clare Valley, this terrific new white shows how well it works across the Tasman Sea in Marlborough, the heart of New Zealand’s sauvignon blanc country. Sweetness balances well with the pure lime and zinging acidity – a fine match for spicy Vietnamese salads.
Les Complices de Loire “Les Graviers” Chinon, Loire, France 2009 (£10.44, Waitrose, waitrosewine.com) At its best, Cabernet Franc from the Loire is the summer red wine par excellence: aromatic, light in alcohol and with a beguiling snap to the succulent berry fruit. This elegant interpretation has more to it than the kind of wine you find served by the pichet in Parisian bistros, with a whiff of pencil- lead and a floral edge adding texture and complexity.
Château Clément-Termes Mémoire Blanc, Gaillac, France 2009 (£9.66, Underwood, underwoodwines.co.uk) This full-flavoured dry white from Gaillac, an appellation in rural France, is a wine for all seasons, combining rich and creamy depths with plenty of cleansing acidity. It’s made from the local varieties Mauzac, Muscadelle and (the evocatively named) Loin de l’oeil, and is full of original character, with zesty mandarin orange and patisserie cream on the palate.
No arguments from me on the Gaillac.
Château Clement Termes Gaillac. Read my review.